Why Cheesemongers Are the True Stars of the Show According to Adam Moskowitz

Adam Moskowitz is the CEO of Larkin Cold Storage a premier importer of cheese. He’s also the founder of the Cheesemonger Invitational, an event that typically is held concurrent with the Fancy Food Show, the specialty food expo. The in-person 2021 Summer Fancy Food Show was just canceled but registration for the Cheesemonger Invitational has been extended registration until August 31. It will take place at the Brooklyn Expo Center on October 1, 2021. We spoke to him about his career in cheese and the role of cheesemongers.

You have a family legacy in the cheese business. What were the “aha moments” that led to you getting into the industry?

There were a couple of key moments, the first was when I was doing some online marketing for one of my father’s projects, Redondo Igelsias. I was hanging out with a bunch of industry peers on a trip abroad and I was blown away. I had evolved into an artist and was passionate about poetry, painting, and food, but the way they talked about food, engaged with the producer, opened me up to a world of food and fermentation. I became smitten. 

I came back from the trip, my grandfather had just passed away a few months earlier, and I was going to pursue a career in entertainment on the West Coast, but the experience of the trip changed me and I experienced serenity, curiosity, and engagement that I had only found previously in the poetry world. My father was in the process of selling Larkin Cold Storage, and I had learned that he was a silent partner in Essex Market. I asked my father about working at the cheese shop at Essex and he said “No son of mine is going to work behind the counter!” I was dejected but a few weeks later, they were down a man and I went in. I was being paid $13/hr and it was one of the best jobs I ever had in my life. I refused to leave. Then the aha moments were daily. I had bridged my palate to my mind to my metaphor. 

As a salesperson in my previous occupation in internet sales, there was a long sales cycle and this was qualifying and selling, and the immediacy of seeing the customer enjoying it. It was unlike anything I’d experienced. The sales cycle was so much shorter. The artistic and the business side of my brain were both being satisfied. Increasing the average ring was great, it was awe-inspiring.

When the deal fell through for selling Larkin I jumped in. I had one rule—you can no longer show up at work every day. That was 2007, then EuroLarkin and Columbia Cheese launched. I saw artisan brands being launched, I was keen on raising the profile of outstanding cheeses and creating a market for them. 

How and why did you launch the Cheesemonger Invitational? 

It was born out of resentment of the Fancy Food Show. We were spending godawful amounts of money on a 40-foot booth and I didn’t feel I was getting the bang for the buck. I had been an entertainment promoter. I told my dad I wanted to throw a party at the warehouse and when he balked I pivoted and said “not a party, but competition” and he thought that was a great idea. 

At the first Cheesemonger Invitational, we had 9 cheesemongers and 400 people showed up—from all parts of the industry — from cheesemongers to CEOs. One cheesemonger came up to me with this awe and bewilderment and he said “Thank you for shining the spotlight on what we do.” I realized, given my DJ background, the cheesemonger was the DJ of cheese. Cheesemongers are the most important people and not to belittle cheesemakers, but if mongers don’t do a good job, the whole thing is for naught. As a friend once said, they also harvest all the cash.  

I became focused on it—it became much more than just a party. Over the years we have incorporated 2 days of education, a preliminary competition, and a public competition. What it has become is a meeting place for the industry. Unlike the Fancy Food Show, we’ve distilled to cheesemongers, pros, and enthusiasts. It’s a who’s who of the industry and a chance to meet and celebrate. I describe its more of a festival. More than just cheese too, but the things that go with cheese.

What do people need to know about the Cheesemonger Invitational? 

I’ve learned that many cheesemongers are shy, they don’t want to be on stage and some find a competition to be trivial. But the Cheesemonger Invitational is much more than a competition, it’s a heartfelt community celebration. The hosts represent some of the most illuminating people in the industry. It’s a chance to bond with others who do what they do. and learn from some of the finest minds. 

The preliminary round allows cheesemongers to challenge themselves—like an obstacle course—like the NYC marathon. It’s not about winning, it’s about challenging themselves. It’s a bit of a show too of course. I have learned that we don’t judge you, we score you and you get the results. I’ve also seen some shy ones turn out to be the most endearing.

The main point is highlighting the role of the cheesemonger. Cheesemongers are the mouthpiece of the cheese. The cheeses are the characters but the mongers are the actors breathing life into them—how they merchandise and treat it and how they work with the consumer is so important. They become a food therapist, a sensory Svengali, to help the cheese curious become turophiles. I don’t want cheese to go the way of wine, no snobs. Our job is to bridge the consumer to flavor and tradition and terroir My ambition is to help cheesemongers help consumers evolve. 

For the guest, it’s rare you’ve seen so much cheese in your life. It’s all you can eat, and I stress you to pace yourself! 

What safety measures do you have in place this year due to COVID? 

Off the bat, we’ve reduced capacity by 70% and it might be reduced further. Everyone must have proof of vaccine and lastly temperature checks at the door. 

Last but not least, what’s your favorite cheese pun? 

It’s one I made up. “When I love you, alpine for you.”