There is a saying that life is what happens while we are making plans. Andrea Cudin holds a Ph.D. in Philosophy; a native of Friuli, Italy, he never planned to make cheese. But life, and in his case love, led to a change in career and truly authentic cheese production deep in the heart of Texas.
After completing his degree, he was happily employed as head of International Relations for the Student Affairs and Services Association at the University of Padua, one of the oldest universities in the world. It was during this period that the unplanned happened… he met his future wife, a native Texan.
In 2012 he moved to Victoria, Texas where he soon discovered the delicious Alpine cheeses he was accustomed to eating were not available. He also discovered that he could not find gainful employment.
Hungry—and a bit homesick—he returned to Italy to learn to make the cheese he loved and craved. In 2016, Lira Rossa Creamery was born.
Lira Rossa Creamery Cheeses
Lira Rossa Creamery located in Lavaca County in South Central Texas is a world away from Friuli, Italy. The climate is subtropical; there is not a hill or mountain in sight. In Friuli, creameries are primarily located in the Dolomites, which are part of the Italian Alps. Improbable as it seems, Andrea has adapted old-world recipes to create Alpine-style cheeses in Moulton, Texas.
The first cheese he produced was Latteria, a raw milk cheese made using a centuries-old recipe. Aged 60 to 365 days, it has a mild slightly nutty flavor that becomes more aromatic with age. It’s a very traditional Friulian cheese that pairs well with everything.
Lira Rossa produces many other cheeses in varying quantities, depending on the time of year and what’s selling at the moment. C’mon Berto is currently one of the most popular. It is Lira Rossa’s version of a Camembert cheese with a creamy texture similar to Brie–perfect for cheese and charcuterie platter.
The smoked ricotta (Andrea uses Pecan wood) is one of the most popular cheeses with chefs and restaurant owners. Rising star award-winning chef Junior Borges of Meridian Dallas now orders Lira Rossa cheese for the restaurant after using it for the first time at a Friuli food and wine event.
Eduardo Valle Lobo, the culinary director for Frasca, in Boulder, has been evangelizing about Friuli food and wine for decades, so it’s no surprise that Frasca was the first Italian restaurant to latch onto Lira Rossa’s traditional Friuli-style cheeses.
Closer to home, Chef Felipe Riccio who has worked at many of the top restaurants in the world, tapped Lira Rossa for Good Night Hospitality’s new Rosie Cannonball in Houston. He incorporated many Lira Rossa cheeses into the menu right from the start. The Lira Rossa Three Cheese Pizza has garnered high marks with many food critics and is one of the most popular menu items.
Andrea lives about an hour from the creamery and commutes every day, except weekends when he drives to Houston (also about an hour from home), for the Farmer’s Market. No doubt, his background in philosophy has aided him in adapting to Texan culture and the challenges of making Alpine cheese in the Lone Star State. A husband, father, and business owner, I was lucky to catch up with him after work hours one day.
Interview with Andrea Cudin of Lira Rossa
What do you like most about your new profession?
Making cheese has that peculiarity that there are living things carrying out the process. With living things, we cannot claim that we have control, which means we have to learn how to somehow help the process find its own path, possibly the one we were envisioning. On another level, making cheese is an expression of tradition and culture. I really love it. Besides, I don’t like working in an office.
Do you have a favorite cheese?
It depends on the moment. The Ricotta fresca is incredible! That is 100% due to the quality of the milk.
Speaking of milk, tell me about how you connected with 4E Dairy
My wife’s family bought milk from Chapoulka’s dairy. 4E is a third-generation dairy farm. They raise Jersey cows instead of Holstein for their raw milk. All of the cows are grass-fed; never given hormones or antibiotics. The quality can compete with dairies from Friuli. It’s that good.
How did you come up with the name Lira Rossa?
It’s a long story but it is more or less named for a book of poetry that belonged to my uncle, Berto. He lived with us when I was growing up and had a big influence on my life. He also lends his name to one of our most popular cheeses, the C’mon Berto.
Do they actually make mozzarella in Friuli?
Yes, everyone makes mozzarella because it’s popular.
How often do you return to Italy, and what do you miss the most about Italy?
I go home once a year. I think the thing I miss the most is being able to walk everywhere. Here in Texas, distances are great and there are fences everywhere.
What do you like the most about Texas?
You have more independence here. It’s much easier to own your own business here, as well.
How has the pandemic affected your business?
The pandemic was negative at first, as it was with everyone. But now many more people come to the dairy and the farmer’s markets to buy high-quality, freshly-made cheese. They believe, correctly, that eating good quality food is good for their health!
I love your cheeses and can’t wait until they are more widely available in the Dallas market. Meanwhile, where can readers buy your cheese?
The dairy is open daily. There is a shop off the highway where anyone can stop and pick up cheese and other products. Lira Rossa is also at farmer’s markets in Houston and Austin. There’s a list of all the cheeses we currently make on the website where you can also find location details.