Editor’s note: Today we kick off a series of cheesemonger profiles. Liz Steeves is one of the Official Conference Cheesemongers for the American Cheese Society’s 2023 conference in Des Moines. She works as director of retail sales at Mystic Cheese Company. Before that, she spent seven years working in affinage and sales for Cato Corner Farm.
How did you start working in cheese?
Liz Steeves
My story is similar to a lot of young mongers’ stories. I tried the higher education route and quickly learned it was not for me. I applied on a whim to Whole Foods Market. I knew nothing about cheese but somehow ended up in the specialty foods department. I trained under Kayleigh Napolitano, who was actively studying for her Certified Cheese Professional exam, and I was like her human study guide—constantly asking questions about everything cheese, and she graciously humored my requests. My curiosity bloomed in a way I had never experienced, and I dove in completely to the world of cheese.
You just made a big career move from Cato Corner Farm to Mystic Cheese. What’s different about this new role, and what are you most excited about?
Mystic Cheese Shop
It’s been a big change! My time at Cato Corner was so pivotal for me and gave me the opportunity to learn every aspect of farmstead cheesemaking. My main duties were affinage and assisting the owner, Mark Gillman, in running the wholesale side of the business. I had been there for almost seven years but I was itching for something different.
I had a longstanding relationship with Mystic since my days at Whole Foods. Brian Civitello (cheesemaker at Mystic) was always a cheese friend, and I admired his work throughout the industry. He was the one who approached me about how they would be hiring for someone to reopen their cheese shop and run their farmers’ markets. He claims he wasn’t trying to poach me, but I like to think otherwise. The opportunity felt right, and everyone at Cato Corner was excited for me to take this next step. My role at Mystic is bringing me back to what I’m passionate about—mongering and cheese education. The opportunity to run a cheese shop and train a new generation of cheeseheads is something I’m really excited for.
Tell me about some of your favorite cheeses and makers at the moment
Round Table Farm Sweet Pea
I may be biased, but I firmly believe New England is making the best cheese in the United States. Round Table Farm is a relatively new maker but I am excited to see where they go! I tried their Taleggio style cheese, Sweet Pea, and was very impressed. They make raw milk cheeses in small batches on their diversified farm in Hardwick, Massachusetts. They’re currently operating as a community-based creamery purchasing local milk but are building up their own herd. Also, I deeply respect their ability to open and out as queer farmers especially now, when queer people are being attacked for their existence.
Winter Hill Farm Tide Line
Another favorite maker of mine is Winter Hill Farm out of Freeport, Maine. They’re another diversified farm making farmstead cheeses. One of my favorites from them is Tide Line. I’ve tried a lot of bloomy rinds with ash ripening, but this one has always stuck out to me. They’re making cheese with Randall cattle, which are an incredibly rare breed that originated in New England. They’re absolutely stunning animals. There’s something truly special about the tradition they’re upholding by using this breed for cheesemaking.
Which cheeses do you feel are underappreciated, and why?
Any cheese that does not come from Europe. Cheese in the United States has been so Eurocentric for so long that I think we as a collective came to accept that those are the best. In the last year, I’ve learned so much about traditional Mexican cheeses and cheeses from the Middle East. I had the opportunity to try authentic Cotija from Mexico last summer and it blew my mind! Cheese can go so far beyond the traditional flavors of nutty, sweet and milky. Unfortunately, FDA regulations restrict the importation of a lot of these cheeses. It’s a hard truth, but there’s a movement emerging to change those laws.
What’s the pairing you just can’t get enough of right now?
I’m really going to let my heritage shine with this one: cheese and potatoes. I eat roasted potatoes with whatever house cheese a couple of times a week. It’s not fancy, and I think I like it that way.
What’s your favorite thing about working in cheese?
The community! The cheese community thrives on collaboration, sharing ideas, and education. Something I love so deeply is how open everyone is to sharing experiences. Creameries welcoming mongers to make cheese for the day, cheese shops opening their doors for guest spots, pairing nights at local breweries and wineries. There’s camaraderie in this community, and it’s very special.
What are you most looking forward to as an Official Conference Cheesemonger at ACS this summer?
The challenge and next step in my career. Navigating this path has been a journey. I’ve spent a lot of time trying out different roles in different fields. There have been times when I didn’t get the promotion or I didn’t get chosen for the scholarship, and those feelings were hard. But I kept moving forward and working toward experiencing as much as I can in this industry. Accepting the opportunity to become an Official Conference Cheesemonger represents the culmination of everything I’ve learned so far in the cheese world. It’s a remarkable achievement, and an experience that I’ll proudly share in the future. Plus, the timing could not be more perfect. As I embark on a new chapter of my career, where my focus is back on cheesemongering and leading a team, being an OCC feels like a tribute to my hard work and reaffirms that I’m exactly where I need to be.
What’s one of the most important lessons you’ve learned over your cheese career?
The importance of the relationship between maker and monger. I’ve worked on both ends of the spectrum, selling cheese in a top-grossing grocery store and also making cheese at an award- winning creamery. The relationship is symbiotic—one cannot exist without the other. Mongers must trust that makers are making the best cheese they possibly can, while makers must trust that mongers are selling the cheese to the best of their ability. My old coworker Kathy Bradley had the best saying: “You gotta make the cheese, then you gotta sell the cheese.” Cheese counters cannot exist without the product, and cheesemakers cannot exist if no one is buying their cheese.
What’s your cheese industry dream job?
A true cheese hero of mine is Anne Saxelby. I’m constantly in awe of how much she accomplished in her time, and I take a lot of inspiration from that. My dream job—and goal—is to one day open my own shop, with a focus on American cheeses, while also distributing and sharing the good word about this domestic gold. Read more about Anne Saxelby, her cheese shop and the Anne Saxelby Legacy Fund.