Editor’s note: Austin Banach is one of the Official Conference Cheesemongers for the American Cheese Society’s 2023 conference in Des Moines. We previously featured Liz Steeves, another Official Conference Cheesemonger.
Austin Banach currently works as a cheesemonger and cheese department manager for Guido’s Fresh Marketplace in Great Barrington, Massachusetts—the latest phase in a culinary career that includes cooking, catering, consulting, and writing.
Austin Banach
How did you start working in cheese?
I graduated culinary school in 2005 with my heart set on being a chef and living that life. But soon, I realized that the life of a chef is incredibly hard, with long, long hours. I took a break from the kitchen and got a job at a local cheese shop. I fell in love with being up front, helping customers, and learning about such a widely celebrated food. Around the same time, I joined the newly formed Culture Magazine as their design intern. I was so spoiled—I got to travel around with them, attend ACS conferences, help organize events, and assist in photoshoots and the procurement of props and cheese! I fell in love with the people, the stories, the history, everything about it.
You’ve worked in a ton of different areas of the food industry. What was it about working in cheese that felt like home?
It’s the community. I have never met such humble, honest and hardworking people in my life. That goes for the dairy farmers, the cheesemakers, the vendors, and the cheesemongers. Each component is such an important and vital part of the journey of cheese along the supply chain. I feel the need to learn as much as I can about these people and that process to share and showcase it with my team and our customers.
Coperthwaite from Churchtown Dairy
Tell is about some of your favorite cheeses and makers at the moment
I’m from and currently live in the Northeast, and I’ve always admired and followed pioneers like the Kehler brothers at Jasper Hill Farm and Laini Fondiller of Lazy Lady Farm. More recently, I’ve been building relationships with High Lawn Farm right here in my county, as well as McGrath Cheese Company and Churchtown Dairy right next door in Hudson, New York. Without overthinking it, my favorite American cheeses at the moment are Coperthwaite from Churchtown Dairy and Harbison from Jasper Hill. But I honestly feel that I haven’t tapped into Midwest or West Coast producers as much as I should.
Which cheeses do you feel are underappreciated, and why?
In general, I think flavored cheeses get snubbed or are underappreciated. While I prefer pure, minimal-ingredient cheeses that let the milk and affinage shine, I do appreciate the creativity of the occasional flavored cheese.
Which wedge is always in your fridge?
I always have a rotating selection of American cheddar and a piece of Jasper Hill’s Alpha Tolman on hand. It’s a very versatile cheese.
Willoughby and bacon jam
What’s the pairing you just can’t get enough of right now?
Jasper Hill’s Willoughby with bacon jam. Or Vermont Creamery’s Coupole with a sweet chili jam.
What’s your favorite thing about working in cheese?
Tasting all the cheese I want. That’s a no-brainer! Sharing it with friends is fun too.
What are you most looking forward to as an Official Conference Cheesemonger at ACS this summer?
It’s hard to choose just one thing, but I’d say the lasting connections—to the people, the OCC team, the producers, the tastes, and memories of such an exciting event in American cheese—and using those connections to propel my passion and career forward.
Guido’s Fresh Market cheese counter
What’s one of the most important lessons you’ve learned over your cheese career?
Stay curious and never assume you know more than someone else. I’ve found that cheesemongers and others in various cheese jobs are a kind, relationship-building, knowledge-generating bunch. I’ve learned to be open to learning from others no matter how long they’ve been in cheese. They just might have the next great pairing idea or speak so passionately about a lesser-known cheese or producer that it pulls you in too.
What’s your cheese industry dream job?
I’m pretty happy as a cheesemonger. I get to eat oodles of cheese, showcase them, and meet tons of people in the industry. Look where it got me—ACS OCC!