Joyride Pizza Shares the Secrets of Detroit Style Pizza

All pizza used to be round, but not anymore. These days pan pizza, “grandma pizza” or regional style like Sicilian, Detroit, Old Forge, Ohio Valley, or Rhode Island style pizza strips, are proving once again that it’s hip to be square. According to Datassentials the Detroit style pizza is poised for 99% growth in pizza menus over the next four years.

Unlike most of their round progenitors, Detroit style pizza is a couple of inches thick and was initially baked in blue steel pans that were originally used for spare parts by automotive suppliers. Brick cheese is used in place of mozzarella and extends over the edges of the dough, and because the dough is fermented 48- to 72-hours, the resulting pizza is like focaccia, at once light but also loaded with cheese. The dough bakes but also fries in the oily hot pan giving it a distinctive crunchy baked cheese coated crust.

 

We spoke with Joyride Pizza co-founder Jesse Jacobs and “chief pizza-ologist” Alastair Hannmann to learn more about brick cheese, Detroit-style pizza and how Joyride is putting their California spin on square pizza.  

 

What is brick cheese? 

Authentic Detroit pan pizza uses this cheese originating in Wisconsin in the late 1800s. It’s special because of the low moisture content, allowing it to be baked at a higher temperature without burning. Instead, it caramelizes and crisps and creates that special crust unique just to Detroit pizza. A semi-hard cow cheese, it’s known for being mildly nutty and creamy without sharpness. 

 

Why is brick cheese crucial to Detroit-style pizza? 

Originating from Wisconsin, it was a natural selection for a cheese when Detroit pizza. Working so well with the size and material of the blue steel oil pan, this cheese was the ideal solution for perfect pan pizza.

 

Do all the Joyride pizzas use brick cheese?  

Currently, all of our pizzas do use this cheese along with several other blends. Our upcoming vegan pizzas will be the only ones not using it.

 

How does Joyride differ from traditional Detroit-style pizzas? 

We take a delicious, unique, Midwest class original, Detroit pizza, and evolve it by using artisanal baking techniques sourcing local, organic, small batch ingredients sourced from small suppliers. It’s not only incredibly delicious; it uses seasonal ingredients, artisanal flour, and traditional fermentation techniques common to old-world baking, not fast food.

What other cheeses does Joyride use? 

Mozzarella, Parmesan Reggiano, Gruyere.

What is the effect of combining brick with different cheeses such as mozzarella on a pizza? 

Combining brick cheese with other cheeses creates a complex taste, texture, and aftertaste unlike a pizza with only one cheese. Additionally, the brick performs uniquely in a chemical reaction in which it literally welds into the wedges of the dough, creating the perception of crispy dough – when in fact its crispy cheese welded together on the crust. Unmistakable beautiful, and delicious.

 

What has proven to be the most popular pizza(s) so far? 

Eat Your Veggies, sourcing locally grown seasonal produce, and artisanal exotic (but non psychoactive!) mushrooms.