Editor’s note: The story of Pinconning cheese has a lot of do with the history of the highway in Michigan. Pinconning cheese is popular in Michigan and generally only available regionally in neighboring states including Wisconsin where it is produced.
“CEN Pinconning MI Wonderful 1950s Roadside Stop Wilsons Cheese Shoppe & Restaurant on US-23 Gifts Hunting & Sporting Goods Beer-Wine-Liquor too CHEESE CAPITAL OF MICH3” byUpNorth Memories – Don Harrison is licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 2.0
The introduction of the automobile didn’t just put America on wheels—it also put towns on the map. A two-hour trip north from Detroit will bring the visitor to the tiny town of Pinconning, Michigan, home to a unique variety of Colby. Today Pinconning is considered the “The Cheese Capital of Michigan” thanks to this unique variety. How this auspicious hamlet came to be a destination for cheese lovers is a curious story. Originally a lumber town, by the early twentieth century Pinconning was transitioning to agriculture. A proliferation of dairy farms popped up, which led to the problem of an oversupply of milk.
Pinconning cheese photo credit Wilson’s Cheese Shoppe 
The Creation of Pinconning Cheese
In 1915 resident Dan Horn, who had recently arrived from Wisconsin, took note of the situation. He immediately thought of a special recipe for Colby cheese he had developed years earlier. Named for a city in Wisconsin, Colby is made in a process similar to Cheddar, but the curds are cold water washed, which halts the acidification and leads to a sweeter cheese that has an open structure with small holes. It is also aged for a shorter period of time than Cheddar is aged. This new cheese developed a more intense flavor as it aged and did not need to be stored at temperatures as low as regular Colby. A cheese that could be aged in cellars and at higher temperatures, would prove proved to be a huge advantage in an era before refrigeration. Soon he constructed a cheese factory and sold it along with other foods at his small shop, Horn’s Grocery Market. Pinconning Cheese, as it came to be known, quickly emerged as a big hit.
A Cheesy Shop
Meanwhile, a highway aided the success of Pinconning cheese and retailing. In an era before the Interstate system, northern Michigan was served by U.S. 23, a road that regularly brought hunters, anglers, and campers from the Detroit area to recreate—and ran right through Pinconning. To accommodate the steady stream of visitors, Wilson’s once even operated a full-service restaurant.
Eventually, Horn’s daughter Inez married a man named Laurence Wilson and expanded the business while changing the name to Wilson’s Cheese Shoppe. Since Inez’s passing in the early 1990s, the shop has changed hands several times but still goes by the Wilson moniker. Today Wilson’s is owned by Brian and Debby Saha and is managed by their son-in-law Ryan Kleinhans. Wilson’s original Pinconning recipe forms the cornerstone of the menu.
A Roadside Destination
Pop into the store on any given day, and you can pick up a pound of sharp, super sharp, or even super-super sharp sliced right off the wheel. Amish, Colby, Longhorn Colby Jack, and Monterey Jack round of the “old fashioned” selections. Flavored varieties such as Pepper Jack, Pimento, and Habanero Ghost Pepper Jack Cheese share shelf space with smoked, hot, and spicy, plus low salt and low cholesterol cheeses. And then there are things like homemade jams and jellies, honey, and pure Michigan maple syrup, plus a full wine selection.
Over the years, Wilson’s had built up a huge following, with many customers residing hundreds of miles away. To capitalize on this, the store operates a burgeoning online business (www.wilsoncheese.com) and will ship anywhere in the U.S. While the online store has operated for some time, Kleinhans points to a website overhaul that made a big difference. “We refreshed our site about five years ago to make it more user-friendly. The improved appearance and navigation allow our online business to grow. We’re able to educate our customers about our shipping and delivery capabilities.” The December shopping season is the busiest time for online business when the store ships out a bevy of holiday gift packages.
Pinconning Today
In the 1960s, Interstate 75 was constructed to link lower Michigan to the straits of Mackinac and the Upper Peninsula. The new road was routed several miles west of Pinconning and reduced the traffic on U.S. 23. This development forced the business to make some tough choices. With less foot traffic, the decision was made to close the restaurant and use the space for gift retailing. Today, along with a few pounds of super-sharp Colby, a customer can take home Michigan themed drinkware, guidebooks, or a tee shirt that says, “I Cut The Cheese.”
But Kleinhans points out that not all northbound travelers use I-75. “The old way of driving up U.S. 23 offers a more scenic and leisurely route,” he says. And with a smile, he adds, “I kind of like it when summer road construction happens. The detours bring in more people.”
16 year-old. Photo credit to Pinconning Cheese Co
Not 500 feet away from Wilson’s is The Pinconning Cheese Co & Fudge Shop which opened in 1948. It was opened by another daughter of Pinconning cheese creator Dan Horn, Marie (Horn) Bennett, and her husband Harry Bennett. It has changed hands several times over the years, but the shop makes their Pinconning cheese from Dan Horn’s original recipe. They also have various aged versions including a 16 year “super super sharp” Pinconning cheese. Like Wilson’s, the store carries a wide variety of cheese, gifts, and souvenirs.
Regardless of which shop you visit the best souvenir might just be having tasted a bit of Americana.