There are few foods more evocative of summer than grilled cheeseburgers. The mouthwatering smells of fire and char mix with the sound of patties sizzling over an open flame to create a dining experience that is quintessential summer. When cooking cheeseburgers, the real fun begins once they come off the grill. Picking what goes on top is a delightful exercise in combining toppings and condiments to create the perfect flavor and texture profile. A perfectly cooked patty is the ideal canvas.
Of course the choice of cheese often sets the whole tone for the experience, and there are many excellent options to consider. Beyond that, a galaxy of choices awaits. Maybe mushrooms or caramelized onions are added, possibly topped with a couple of slices of thick bacon. For condiments, ketchup and mustard are the standard-bearers, but far from the only options. Relish, mayonnaise, and hot sauce are also popular.
Seek International Inspiration
For those who want to take their burgers to the next level, it’s worth considering toppings that work together to create a ‘personality’, bringing together elements of a theme or culinary culture. Maybe that means combining Fontina cheese, basil pesto, and slices of San Marzano tomatoes to evoke an Italian style. A personal favorite is combining briny feta cheese, salty Kalamata olive tapenade, and roasted red peppers. The Mediterranean flavors go beautifully with a medium-rare beef burger and a glass of chilly Greek Moschofilero wine.
Aim for Contrasting Flavors & Textures
Julia Hallman, lead buyer and general manager of Formaggio Kitchen in Cambridge, Massachusetts, loves to pair contrasting flavors and textures. One of her favorites is tomato jam paired with alpine cheeses such as French Comté. “I love the rich and savory onion notes of a good, aged alpine,” she says. “It pairs perfectly with the not-too-sweet tomato jam.”
Another favorite combination of Hallman is young Farmdal Gouda from Belgium with Hatch chili peppers. “Think of it like a deconstructed queso fundido on a burger.” Hallman loves the wild combination of flavors. “Spicy, tart, and creamy? It’s a perfect combination.”
Balance Sweet & Savory
Anaïs Saint-André Loughran, the owner of Chantal’s Cheese Shop in Pittsburgh, invites her inquisitive customers to consider using cheeses that might seem odd for a burger. Her recommendations reflect her Lyon, France upbringing. “Don’t be shy to use goat or sheep’s milk,” she asserts. “Blue cheese or washed rinds are also great choices.” Her suggestions include either Bamboozle from Goat Rodeo (half goat-half cow) or Grayson from Meadow Creek (Raw cow). As for condiments, Saint-André Loughran isn’t afraid to be bold. “Use any cool jam, like jalapeño or bacon.” A personal favorite is Mirabelle plum jam mixed with white wine and cumin. “The flavors just explode!”
Gild the Veggie Burger
On the west coast, Rory Stamp has a completely different approach to the possibilities. Crowned champion cheesemonger at the Cheesemonger Invitational in San Francisco in 2018, and author of Cheese Illustrated, Stamp is a bit of a renaissance man when it comes to incorporating cheese into his summer cooking. For him, a burger doesn’t automatically mean meat.
“Veggie burgers often get a bad rap for being more cardboard than carnal, and deservedly so”, he wistfully concedes. “But what about a chickpea burger?” Stamp, now living in California, takes cues from Alice Waters, owner of the renowned Berkeley restaurant Chez Panisse. “Load the patty up with tarragon and savory herbs. Top it with a breaded-and-fried chèvre croquette and a heathy schmear of aïoli.” Which goat cheese does Stamp prefer? “Vermont Creamery Bijou is perfect,” he says. Wash it all down with a glass of favorite Provençal rosé wine, and enjoy “all the luscious, sun-drenched flavors of the Côte d’Azur.”
While there is nothing wrong (at all) with a freshly cooked burger simply adorned with a little cheese, some ketchup, and a pickle or two, this venerable sandwich is capable of so much more! With a little creativity and thought, your next burger could be the best one you’ve had yet.