In our new series of cheese profiles, we further examine those cheeses that have been called out as best sellers from places in our “Cheese Shops We Love” series. Next up, Amsterdam’s dessert-like L’Amuse Signature Gouda.
We can all only hope to be described as “delightfully nutty” in our advanced age, as is the case for L’Amuse Signature Gouda, a dessert-like cheese that is one of the best sellers at Philadelphia’s legendary Di Bruno Bros, among others from the retailers. I also wouldn’t mind being described as “the reigning queen (of aged Gouda,) to which all others must bow,” as it is on their website. Here, we take a closer look at what makes Her Royal Majesty L’Amuse Signature Gouda as special as she is.
L’Amuse photo credit Di Bruno Bros.jpg
What is L’Amuse Signature Gouda?
L’Amuse is a pasteurized cow’s milk gouda made in The Netherlands by Betty Koster, proprietress of Fromagerie L’Amuse, and her husband Martin, and aged for a minimum of two years in varying climatic conditions in a process which gives this cheese its particularly unique texture among goudas.
History of L’Amuse Signature Gouda
Gouda cheese generally, which is named after a town in Holland, dates back to the 13th century, making it one of the oldest historical cheese styles that we still recognize today. Gouda is not a name-protected cheese, however, and while a tremendous amount of gouda is produced in The Netherlands, gouda may be made anywhere on earth from a variety of animal milks. Betty Koster is largely considered to be an affinage whisperer, and her L’Amuse Signature Gouda dates back to 1989, when she was looking to develop a proprietary gouda for her cheese shop, working with local farmers and opleggers—Dutch affineurs.
How L’Amuse Signature Gouda is Made
One of the major procedural distinctions of gouda at large is that its curds are washed with water once the whey is drained, reducing its lactic acid and resulting in a sweeter cheese, gouda’s particular calling card no matter who is doing the making. For L’Amuse Signature Gouda, pasteurized cow’s milk from Holstein Friesian cows is sourced from multiple small dairy farms throughout Holland. L’Amuse is aged for a minimum of 2 years in slightly warmer conditions than gouda is accustomed to, which gives it a creamier texture than goudas of a similar age, while still preserving its crystalline crunch potential and maintaining its inherent sweetness.
Tasting Notes
Flavor superlatives seem to follow L’Amuse no matter where it is sold. (See “delightfully nutty” comment above. Another site refers to it as “a revelation,” and yet another: “cheese candy.”) “The paste is firm but creamier than one would expect from an aged Gouda,” says Samantha Fantauzzi of Bedford Cheese Shop. “It offers flavors of hazelnut and burnt caramel and a delightful crystalline crunch.”
Pairings
Because of its built-in sweetness, L’Amuse is ripe to be treated as dessert, and can be paired with other sweet and roasty products like nuts and chocolate. Di Bruno Bros suggests pairing it with Black Lava Cashews.
Beverage-wise, L’Amuse is a cheese that can stand up to bold and fruity reds, as well as rich, dessert-like beers like chocolate stout or porter. Some to try with L’Amuse would be Whalers Brewing Company Hazelnut Stout a 2022 NY International Beer Competition Gold Medal Winner, Twin Oast Brewing Ship Burner Brown Porter (2022 NY International Beer Competition Gold Medal Winner,) Bodega Piquera Los Losares Monastrell 2019 a 2022 NY International Wine Competition Double Gold Medal Winner, and L’uva Bella Winery Bourbon Barrel Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, 2022 NY International Wine Competition Gold Medal Winner.