Get to Know Roquefort Cheese

Perhaps no other cheese is as emblematic of blue cheeses, and even French cheeses, than Roquefort. Produced in the picturesque Aveyron department of the Occitania region, this time-honored favorite was the first French cheese granted an AOC in 1925, (a certification from the French organization regulating production methods and production zones for place-named products), and is prized the world over for its excellent flavor and elegance. 

 

Medieval Roots

Some food historians maintain that an earlier version of cheese similar to Roquefort existed as early as 79AD. The legend about the creation of Roquefort says that a shepherd boy eating his lunch was captivated by the beauty of a passing young lady; he dashed out of the cave in pursuit, leaving the remains of his rye bread and cheese meal behind. Upon his return, days later, he finds the cheese covered in blue mold. Despite its appearance, he tastes the blue-flecked remains and voila!…a star is born. By the 15th century, Roquefort gained verifiable notoriety and appeared regularly on the tables of ruling class. In 1411 King Charles VI decreed that in order to be called Roquefort the cheeses could only be aged in the limestone-rich caves of Mont Combalou, where all Roquefort cheeses continue to be aged to this day. 

 

How Roquefort is Made

It all begins with the raw, unpasteurized milk of the native Lacaune breed of sheep, known for both their resilient nature and high fat protein rich milk. During their grazing season between March and December the region provides them with a diverse diet of local flora including grasses and wild herbs. 

Upon delivery to the dairy the milk is heated in large vats and rennet is added. Certain producers choose to add the Penicillium roqueforti mold cultures at this point. The coagulated mass is then cut into soft curds, and the unpressed curds are then molded. The mold cultures can also be introduced at this stage. After a few days of turning and draining the excess moisture, the wheels are salted for a few days and brushed to remove the excess salt. The final step at the dairy is to pierce the wheels. A machine outfitted with numerous long thin needles burrows into each wheel, providing the many cavities that will allow for air to enter, encouraging the development of the blue mold.

 

The Magic of the Caves

By employing the steps above and simply aging them in your run of the mill modern day facility for a few months I would imagine you would still have a great sheep’s milk blue. But the defining moment for each wheel; that final ingredient that makes it worthy of the Roquefort name, is found only inside the caves at Cambalou.

The caves allow producers to maintain the ideal temperature and humidity for aging for the young wheels. This is due to the fleurines, or fissures in the cave walls formed millions of years ago due to geological turbulence, that make possible the flow of air and moisture. After their two week minimum natural cave refining , the round wheels are then portioned into the traditional half-moon shape and wrapped in foil, bearing the name of the producer. They are then moved to a cold storage facility, where they will continue to ripen to perfection for a minimum of three months, as dictated by the AOC. 

 

Notable Roquefort Producers

There are seven producers of Roquefort cheese. Societe is by far the largest producer, accounting for more than half of all Roquefort on the market. It is the brand that you are most likely to see in large grocery outlets and offers good flavor and consistency. Fromageries Occitanes is not available in the US to the best of my knowledge; if it is it would be quite a rare find. And while I have had Le Vieux Berger in the past on many occasions, it seems to be less available in the US these days, but worth investing in if you do come across it. It has a bold flavor and an upfront kick with a salty finish. Papillon is a leading brand in the U.S. offering a range of cheeses. They are also one of the two remaining companies that still use actual rye bread molds in their cheeses (choosing to bake their own loaves in house) , and are very accommodating to tourists looking to learn more about the cheese and process, as are many of the other Roquefort houses.

The oldest continuous producer would be Roquefort Vernières, their name having been mentioned in writings pertaining to Roquefort production dating as far back as 1433.

A step up from the pack would be the cheeses of Gabriel Coulet. They are typically found only better in shops and offer a rich creamy texture and refined flavor. They offer their Roquefort in a variety of ages and sizes, and their carefully hand selected  “La Petite Cave” wheels are considered their finest offering. They have also extended their brand to include (non blue) sheep milk tommes.

While all of these manufacturers more than exceed the high quality standards set forth by the AOC, it would be Roquefort Carles that is widely recognized as the “creme de la creme ” by discriminating cheesemongers, restaurateurs and gourmands alike. A family run company since its inception in 1927, this esteemed brand carries on today under the watchful eye of granddaughter Delphine Carles. Made using the milk from their own dairy, their cheeses are creamy and subtle, with a well balanced blue flavor that does not detract from the sweet rich taste of the milk. 

 

Tasting and Serving Roquefort

Roquefort is not a timid cheese. And while the initial flavor is strong, on the finish it is never as bitingly sharp or persistent as, say, Spanish Cabrales blue, which can linger on the palate for a good twenty minutes. 

In tasting Roquefort cheese, your first impression will be salt and umami at times almost to the point of an anchovy salinity in certain brands. Quickly these flavors will morph into the sweet taste of sheep’s milk, and I personally get a hint of freshly shelled nuts at times. The texture is creamy with a slight graininess. Ever the minimalist, my favorite way to enjoy Roquefort is either by itself, or atop a slice of good bread. Fruit jams and most anything sweet will be ideal partners on a cheese plate ,and it excels in composed salads with apples, pears, endive, watercress, beets and walnuts. I’ve stuffed it into fresh figs, used it to add a luxury touch to appetizers such as endive boats and cucumber rounds, and even dotted grilled cheese sandwiches with it. 

It is also a fun change of pace to use it as is or in a compound butter on a grilled steak. And when I’m feeling generous I treat my lunch guests to a Beef Tenderloin Sandwich adorned with both truffle butter and Roquefort. As far as wines, conventional wisdom would suggest pairing it with sweet wines such as Sauternes, which is indeed an excellent partner. And while it’s not a textbook pairing, I can speak from personal experience that a slice of Le Vieux Berger paired with a glass of Chateau Talbot (both “house” stock items during my tenure as a private chef decades ago) is absolute heaven. 

Roquefort and all blues for that matter will never be to everyone’s liking. Read understanding blue cheese lovers and haters. Be that as it may, in a world of dispensable food products Roquefort remains an example of a great one, as well as a testament to the longevity of products that are produced with integrity and a respect for tradition. Read more about blue cheeses.