Conciato Romano, an Italian Cheese for Daring Palates

The intense, pungent smell arrives first, awakening – or alarming, depending on tastes and sensibilities – the other senses and prefiguring the bold and lasting flavor of the cheese: be it grated on a piping hot soup, a pasta dish, or a freshly baked pizza, whose temperature only enhances the peculiar aroma, or even cold, maybe paired with sugary fig or a candied pear, Conciato Romano always draws attention.

 

What is Conciato Romano?

Traditionally made from cow, goat, or sheep milk – the latter being the preferred option, these days – with goat rennet, this cheese has a very long history and a pretty small spread: already known and appreciated by the Romans or probably even earlier, the peculiar technique was mentioned by the Latin poet Marziale and has been handed down along the centuries from one generation to another of shepherds and farmers as a way to preserve, and sometimes hide, the precious and tasty cheese.

 

While the production process is similar to many other common cheeses, the difference is in the unique maturing process, which is probably to be found only in the rural area near the city of Caserta, not far from Naples, which was once called ‘Campania Felix’ to indicate the beauty and fecundity of this pristine land (which it still is, despite the unfair reputation linked to Caserta’s high criminality rate and pollution, albeit reduced over the last years).

 

How is Conciato Romano Aged?

Once the small wheels are formed and dry-salted, now as then, they are seasoned or ‘pickled’ – ‘conciate’, in Italian – with the water where the pettole (the typical local home-made pasta, ready to be seasoned with tomato sauce or beans) have been boiled. Enriched with the pasta’s starch, the water covers the cheese with a thin layer and prepares the outside to be further seasoned with a mix of olive oil, vinegar, red wine, chili peppers, and herbs – each family has his own recipe – and finally stashed in terracotta jars, or amphoras, where they rest and mature for at least 6 months, up to 2 years. “Probably, this was a trick used to hide the precious content from invaders and armies, from Ancient Rome to World War II, as it also happened for wine, oil, and other food,” cheesemaker Manuel Lombardi explains. “Yet, it also was a sort of lifesaver, to preserve supplies over the summer and assure provisions for the winter: you can’t really eat the cheese before 6 months. But after that, it becomes more and more intense as time passes.”

 

Bringing Back Conciato Romano

A smart and passionate man in his forties, Lombardi belongs to one of the very few families still making Conciato Romano on their farm Le Campestre, nestled in the Trebulani mountains not far from Caiazzo: a tiny, almost forsaken village turned into a popular destination thanks to the gorgeous pizzas made by Franco Pepe, who also starred in Netflix Chef’s Table: Pizza show (and who is one of the greatest ambassador of this land and its extraordinary products, Conciato included.)

 

Le Campestre

Established by his parents, Franco and Liliana, Le Campestre is a dreamlike place where an enchanted nature somehow sweetens hard daily work. Having migrated to Belgium, they decided to return to their homeland with their sons Fabio and Manuel and dedicate themselves to breeding animals and farming. It was Fabio, a passionate farmer, who recovered the ancient cheese recipe and started making it again while Manuel continued his studies in IT. Yet, when a tragic accident killed his young brother, he decided to follow in his steps, embracing cheese production and agriculture with the same passion and obstinacy, flanked by a strong attitude towards communication and popularization, which eventually led him to become a prominent name in the farming field as well as a proud testimonial of his land and to be regularly featured in popular TV shows. And Conciato Romano – for which they only use the rich, tasty milk of 150 crossbreed sheep grazing local pastures, their own Casavecchia wine, and the intensely scented local oregano – is his primary and unfaltering banner.

“This extraordinary cheese overcame every pandemic over 2,000 years, as well as wars and invasions, including the occupation by the Allies in 1944-45: it tells a story of survival and resistance, still ongoing. Our grandparents hid it from the army; today, we ‘resist’ the use of plastic or milk powder. And what was long considered ‘old’ becomes modern again,” he says. Mind-blowing at first taste, almost similar to blue cheese, Conciato mainly owns its fiery character to clay and time, besides the tasty curing. Nowadays, the jars are polished on the inside for hygiene reasons, causing an almost complete lack of oxygen; yet, the cork cap allows light oxygenation, causing a refermentation and keeping sure moisture. This is why, before 9 months of aging, the cheese is hard, ideal to be grated, or – as Manuel Lombardi suggests, both to enhance taste and avoid diminishing its symbolic value – “shaved just like a truffle.” After that time, it becomes almost creamy and has an unmistakable smell and pungency. Yet, it never entirely loses a certain elegance and balance and – added appropriately – never fails to turn ‘average’ bites into something unique. Chefs and pizzaiolos know it well: apart from Franco Pepe’s Pepe in Grani (and more outlets across Italy), you can find Conciato shaved on many delicious pizzas all over the country, usually paired with “sweet” vegetables or fruit and fruit preserves, or to match bold sauces such as Genovese (a delicious, long-cooked, creamy concoction of beef and onions, typical from Naples area). Even in the United States, renowned pizzaiolos such as Johnatan Goldsmith (Spacca Napoli, Chicago) or Daniele Uditi (Pizzana, Los Angeles) generously shave it on their pies. 

 

How to Enjoy Conciato Romano

Yet, without a doubt, the best way to enjoy Conciato Romano is sitting at a table at Le Campestre, be it on the scenic terrace that Alice Waters has dubbed “Dolce Vita” or in the rustic and cozy hall, sipping a good Casavecchia wine and forgetting about anything else at least for a few hours. On weekends, the Lombardi family open their door to visitors upon reservation for a hearty lunch where – at 1.30 pm, when the bell rings – family recipes and excellent local products often meet the intense cheese: from Scarpariello pasta with tomato sauce to bean soup or the tiny and crisp Annurca apples. “When you taste an oven-baked Annurca glazed with local Asprinio sparkling wine and pair it to a glass of Falerno or Casavecchia red wine, you are basically eating for products whose origin dates back to Ancient Rome,” Manuel says. “Conciato allows to stop time, both for taste and soul. To appreciate it, you have to pay attention: smell it, listen to who’s explaining it to you as well as to other’s reactions, and forget about the cell phone for a while. It’s an emotional journey where you step back in time and broaden your horizons.” 

Le Campestre

Via Buonomini, 3

Castel di Sasso, Caserta

Italy