550 Central Avenue Sarasota, FL 34236
Sarasota is an unlikely spot for a cheese shop, but Louise Kennedy Converse, owner of Artisan Cheese Company, is up to the challenge.
“Being in Florida, access is our biggest obstacle,” she explains. The state has few cheesemakers and obtaining high-quality cheese from distributors was initially challenging. “I hate the word no! Doors shut, I just kept on. We persevered—eventually I was able to get and create access to better cheeses, since [distributors and producers] know we’re doing right by the cheese and taking care of it. We really are here for the long haul.”
Converse started Artisan Cheese Company in 2012 and moved the shop to its current, expanded location in the Rosemary District in 2018. Although cheese has been a lifelong passion, she hadn’t previously worked in the industry and got up to speed by visiting cheese shops, completing the Murray’s Cheese Boot Camp, and spending the 3 hours of her daily commute reading and watching videos about cheese.
“I had always worked for other people and lived vicariously through their successes—I wanted to do something that was mine,” she says.
The Shop
Artisan Cheese Company photo credit Artisan Cheese Company
“At our core we’re a cut to order cheese shop,” says Converse. The space is approximately 2,000 square feet, with an airy, industrial feel thanks to high ceilings and large windows. The cheese counter that runs along one wall is the main focus of the shop, and there is also a pantry section, grab-and-go items, and a selection of natural wines. A small “farm-focused, cheese-influenced” lunch menu is available, with items including toasts, tacos, soup, and cheese boards.
Artisan Cheese Company’s selection varies throughout the year, from 100-110 cheeses during the busy winter holiday season and 50-60 cheeses during the slower summer months. Converse describes the shop’s focus as 60% American and 40% European, with “a tip of the hat” to regional producers in the Carolinas and Georgia.
Cheese is meticulously cared for by Converse and her cheesemongers ensuring that customers fully appreciate the cheesemakers’ artistry. “To have repeat customers ask for a cheese by name, I love that the most—[when that happens,] I feel we’ve been successful.”
Top Selling Cheeses
Green Hill
Sweet Grass Dairy Green Hill photo credit Sweet Grass Dairy
“I’ve heard Green Hill described as butter with a rind—it’s a gateway cheese for so many people who are intimidated by all the colors and shapes when they first come into the shop,” says Converse. She also notes that the cheese’s producer, Georgia’s Sweet Grass Dairy, is the shop’s “nearest neighbor” approximately an 8-hour drive away. Read more about Sweet Grass Dairy.
Brabander
Brabander cuts and whole wheel photo credit Essex Street Cheese Co
“A lot of goudas tend to rely on certain milk cultures to bring out fudgy notes, but Brabander goes deeper than that: you can taste the grass,” says Converse. The cheese is produced by Fromagerie L’amuse in the Netherlands. “It’s a beautiful example of gouda, and we’re proud to represent them.”
Bay Blue
Bay Blue wheel & wedge photo credit Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese
“We’ve loved Point Reyes Bay Blue from the very beginning,” says Converse. “It’s very accessible to people who might not like blue cheese.”
Also Look For
“I’m in love with the pantry section as much as the cheese case—we focus on small and micro batch products,” Converse says. Some of her favorites include the raspberry mostarda from Vermont’s Blake Hill Preserves and the habanero carrot curry sauce from Marshall’s Haute Sauce in Portland, Oregon.