Shane courtesy of Sheridans
A Store That Creates Fans
My first visit to Sheridans happened in what was still a pandemic-centric world, and the modest, flagship store in western Ireland’s otherwise vibrant city of Galway was only letting in a few people at a time. Having waited to get in, and knowing there were others waiting behind me, I was nervous about taking up too much time with too many questions, but my goal was singular: I really wanted to get a crash course in Irish cheese, and Sheridans, Ireland’s largest cheese retailer, was definitely the place to do that. Furthering my trepidation was that, once inside, basic next-in-line laws had landed me with what seemed to be the youngest cheesemonger in the store, who I wasn’t so sure would be amused by my enthusiasm and greed for information. (This was pure ageism, I freely admit it.)
What followed was one of the best retail experiences—cheese or otherwise—of my life. Shane, my young cheesemonger, was a wealth of knowledge and equal to my enthusiasm, tasting me on a dozen exemplary Irish cheeses that ran the gamut of milk and styles, with personal stories and technical details to boot, without even a hint of impatience for this American interloper. (I have subsequently tried to talk him into coming to the US and participating in the Cheesemonger Invitational.) Out of relief I basically purchased some of everything I tasted, prepared to part with some serious coin for my gratitude. The resulting tab was all of €30. (The closer to the source, the cheaper the cheese.) Since then, I’ve never been in Ireland without going to Sheridans. It is my personal cheese mecca.
From Farmer’s Market to Irish Cheese Empire
Sheridans was begun by brothers Kevin and Seamus Sheridan in 1995 to promote Irish farmstead cheeses, which even then were about way more than just Irish cheddar, and grew quickly from what was a humble farmer’s market stall to several brick-and-mortar locations in Galway and throughout Ireland. Since then, Sheridans has also added its own maturing cave operation, as well as counter locations within several independent grocers and also within Irish department store chain, Dunnes.
While Irish cheeses are still rightfully very much front and center at Sheridans, mostly made by artisan cheesemakers that the greater Sheridans family know personally, they now also provide other European artisan cheeses, as well as hand-picked cheese accouterments, including bespoke crackers and chutneys that bear the Sheridans label.
The Store at Sheridans of Galway
Across from a 14th century church, and down the alley from a classic Irish pub that is rowdy with the jig-time cadence of traditional music even on a sleepy Monday afternoon, a pilgrimage to Sheridans is not your average cheese shopping experience.
The flagship location in Galway is long but narrow, aided in brightness by a lengthwise wall of windows through which barrels of pickles and olives beckon gastronomically-inclined shoppers. A small refrigerator of pre-cut cheeses makes convenient cheese shopping possible, but the real fun is browsing the well-stocked case and rustic wooden shelves for treasures, dairy and otherwise, and chatting with the knowledgeable staff. (On my most recent visit, again guided by Shane, I left with a jar of uniquely floral dandelion and burdock jelly.)
The refrigerated cheese case is almost entirely stocked with soft bloomy rind, washed rind, and blue cheeses, leaving cake-like stacked wheels of harder cheeses to waist-high shelves that make it possible to get up close and personal with them.
Top Selling Cheeses
St. Tola
From my personal experience, you spot many more cows and sheep grazing on Ireland’s lush fields than goats, but that potentially makes Ireland’s exemplary goat cheeses all the more special. St. Tola in its present state is a partnership between neighbors. Meg and Derrick Gordon began making St. Tola in County Clare in 1978 from their goat herd, care of Meg’s cheese-making know-how honed in Normandy. Eventually, the couple sold the operation to neighbor Siobhan Ni Ghairbhith who had taken cheesemaking lessons from Meg, and who continues the St. Tola tradition in cheesemaking facilities she developed on her parents’ farm nearby. A soft-ripened goat log made from raw milk cheese, St. Tola provides a classic clean, lactic tang with a smooth but robust paste, and is also available in ash-coated and whipped versions.
Gubbeen
Gubbeen, which roughly translates to “mouthful,” is the singular cheese made by cheesemaker Giana Ferguson in County Cork, but that only-child attention has resulted in a cheese of singular character. Somewhat reminiscent of Taleggio, Gubbeen is a semi-firm washed rind cheese that is influenced both by its proximity to the sea, as well as a selection of nuts fed to the cow herd whose milk makes for Gubbeen. The result is perhaps the friendliest of washed rind cheeses: the gentle, earthy funk is still there, but so is a distinct nuttiness and a sweetness akin to sea salt caramel.
15 Fields Cheddar
15 Fields is a partnership between farmer and cheesemaker Eamonn Lonnergan, the mastermind between County Waterford’s Knockanore and Bride Valley Cheddars, and Sheridans maturing cave facilities, helmed by Sheridans affineur Mark Booker. In looking to create a signature brand cheddar, Sheridans specifically sought raw cow’s milk that was sourced from a single farm, (in this case comprised of 15 fields,) by an expert cheesemaker. With the unique environment of Sheridans maturing caves, this cheddar exhibits a dense, more rich texture than your average aged cheddar, but still maintains distinct, savory notes of horseradish and white mushrooms.
Also Look For
On that fateful first visit to Sheridans, young cheesemonger Shane also advised me to check out the Sheridans Wine Bar upstairs, where I was told that Seamus Sheridan was hosting a group and breaking down an entire wheel of Parmigiano-Reggiano. I must again admit prejudice here, as I pictured a sedate group of turophiles united in reverence around the inarguable king of cheeses. (The Parmigiano-Reggiano, I mean, not Seamus, but I am willing to reconsider that claim given my love of his store.) Instead I found what I’m pretty sure was a bachelor party in the otherwise cozy second-floor space, with a raucous group of gentlemen downing wine and nibbling at the recently vivisected Parm wheel.
This is all to say, when you make your necessary pilgrimage to Sheridans, do indeed check out the upstairs wine bar for more instant gratification enjoyment of Sheridans cheese along with an expertly curated selection of old world wine.