Memorial Day honors those who served our country and is also the start of cookout and picnic season. Instead of the typical messy barbecue fare, why not enjoy wine and cheese outdoors with friends and family? We spoke with André Compeyre, Chef Sommelier and Manager at Aldo Sohm Wine Bar in New York City, for his recommendations on the best pairings for the upcoming holiday weekend. A Toulouse native, Compeyre is the official Ambassador of the Wines of Southwest France and teaches classes for the American Sommelier Association.
According to Compeyre, an outdoor picnic calls for cheeses that won’t get too runny in the warm weather and come in packaging that is easy to serve from. As for wines, it is all about “Bubbles, the refreshing whites and roses, and the lighter, fruity reds.” And if you can score a magnum bottle, even better. It’s also important not to forget the bread with your pairings. Compeyre suggests anything from baguette to sourdough, whole wheat, and a gluten-free option.
Saint Nectaire with Bordeaux Blend
Straight from the Auvergne region of central France, Saint Nectaire is a cow’s milk cheese with an “earthy flavor that has some spice,” says Compeyre. A cheese like this will complement the black fruity notes of the La Dame de Montrose, Saint-Estèphe 2011, or the hints of berry in the Blaufränkisch, Finger Lakes.
La Noix d’Argental with Côtes du Rhône Villages
This French cow’s milk cheese matures with a nut liqueur from France giving it a flavor that is indeed, nutty. “The La Noix d’Argental is aged in a damp cellar for six weeks,” says Compeyre. Then it is rubbed three times with that nut liqueur. Expect a creamy texture from this cheese and enjoy it with a red blend that has some floral and spice notes, such as the Château La Nerthe, Les Cassagnes Côtes du Rhône Villages 2019.
Fleur du Maquis with Provence Rosé
A sheep’s milk that originates from the island of Corsica in France, the Fleur du Maquis is a soft cheese that is “covered with juniper berries and rosemary,” says Compeyre. The overall flavor is mild with some citrus and pairs nicely with the soft berry notes of La Chapelle Gordonne Rosé, Tête de Cuvée Côtes de Provence 2021.
Montagnard with Sonoma Chardonnay
The word “Montagnard” translates to “mountain” in French which works well since this cheese comes from the French mountain range of Vosges. Montagnard is a creamy cheese with a “funky aroma,” says Compeyre. However, the flavor, while earthy, is on the mild side and accompanies the pear and lemon notes of the Domaine Della, Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast 2018.
Greensward with Long Island Chardonnay
Greensward is rich in New York City history. It was named after the Greensward Plan, the landscape layout for Central Park, and is aged in caves right in the city. Because of its loose and milky texture, the cheese is wrapped in strips of spruce to keep it secure, Compeyre explains. It’s washed with the residue of wine leftover in the barrel from Vermont’s own Eden Specialty Ciders. The result is flavorful with hints of bacon, making for a great companion to the complex Channing Daughters Winery, L’Enfant Sauvage Chardonnay 2016 from Long Island.
Coupole with Russian River Sparkling
This goat’s milk cheese is produced at Vermont Creamery using pasteurized milk from family goat farms. Coupole is “creamy,” says Compeyre, and has hints of “earthy aromas.” Its flavors work well with anything a little on the fizzy side, such as Iron Horse Vineyards, Wedding Cuvée Estate Bottled Green Valley of Russian River Valley 2018.
Cambozola Black Label with Sauternes
Cambozola Black Label is a cow’s milk cheese made by the German producer Käserei Champignon in Bavaria. This label is aged longer than the classic Cambozola and “punches up the flavor,” says Compeyre, as does the “gray mold found along with the rind.” It is the ultimate in a creamy blue cheese that is both sweet and nutty. The equally creamy, full-bodied Château Rieussec, Sauternes 1er Grand Cru Classé 2019 is a stellar pairing choice.
Tumbleweed with NY Riesling
This raw cow’s milk cheese is from 5 Spoke Creamery in New York and made with local Hudson Valley milk that helps give it that rich “buttery” flavor. It’s a semi-hard cheese with a slight “crumbly texture,” says Compeyre, and is aged in a cave for about a year to help intensify its profile. As for the right wine, Compeyre suggests a peachy floral wine like Hermann J. Wiemer, Riesling Dry Estate Bottled and Grown Seneca Lake 2020.
Morbier with Jura
With the same name as the eastern region of France Franche-Comté, Morbier is a “raw cow’s milk cheese,” says Compeyre, with a “pungent and nutty” flavor that can linger. Aged for three months, this cheese is semi-firm with a creamy texture and a layer of flavorless vegetable ash found in the middle. Compeyre says a smooth white Jura wine from France with Savagnin grapes is a great pairing option, such as the Bénédicte et Stéphane Tissot, Arbois Savagnin Amphore 2017.
Zimbro with Dão Encruzado
Zimbro is raw sheep’s milk cheese that is produced in the Centro Region of Portugal. It is made with the local cardoon thistle which helps add hints of “herbal flavor,” says Compeyre. It’s a soft and creamy cheese that is aged for 60 days and tied with a white cloth to create its thick interior. Compeyre suggests pairing this cheese with a crisp white wine from Portugal with white Encruzado grapes, such as the Textura Wines Pretexto, Dão 2020.