How the Syrian Cheese Jibneh is Made and Enjoyed

“Jibneh was a staple in my fridge growing up,” says Benita Kasbo, a Syrian immigrant who has lived in the U.S. since childhood, and has made and sold jibneh through her New Jersey-based business, Kasbo’s Market, since 2017. Jibneh simply means “cheese” in Arabic, though its distinctive character invites further exploration. Kasbo describes it as “a cross between mozzarella, feta, and halloumi,” which is apt, but only part of the story. It is a fresh cheese with a milky quality, a pronounced saltiness, medium-firmness, and excellent meltability. Jibneh’s differentiating characteristic, however, that makes it utterly unlike any of the cheeses mentioned above, is that it is aromatized with mahleb: a Middle Eastern spice made from ground cherry stones, that lends a uniquely fruity and nutty quality to the flavor of the cheese, almost akin to marzipan.

 

Born in Aleppo, Syria, Kasbo has lived in the U.S. most of her life, and her journey to making and selling jibneh was a deeply personal one: “In 2017, many Syrian refugees were relocating to New Jersey,” she explains. “I volunteered as a translator for Syrian refugee dinners to help raise money for these families, and I realized I could have been a refugee if my family hadn’t moved to America. I wanted to do something that could represent my culture and allow for education about Syria and its people.”

Kasbo believes that many traditional, Middle Eastern foods are often mischaracterized or whitewashed as simply “Mediterranean.” While the two regions do share certain ingredients, it is the common miscategorization of Middle Eastern foods especially which makes her passionate about representing jibneh as distinctly Syrian or Middle Eastern. “I believe this type of misrepresentation doesn’t allow people to learn the true origin story of the food and only puts up cultural barriers,” she says. As jibneh is exceptionally delicious, it is an excellent ambassador for the cause.

 

How Is Jibneh Made?

Kasbo purchases whole cow’s milk curd, which she then cuts into large cubes of about 5 to 6 ounces. The cubes are cured with salt and allowed to drain for several hours, removing a significant amount of moisture while seasoning the curd itself. Once the cubes are cured and drained, they are boiled in a water bath which contains the mahleb. (“The nutty, floral aroma fills the kitchen,” says Kasbo.) The water bath contributes to jibneh’s firm but pliant texture, and creates its magnificent melting capability, while the mahleb gives the cheese its unique and compelling flavor.

 

A word about mahleb, since there was something strangely familiar about “cherry stones” to my ears, despite being uncommon in American cuisine. In fact, like the seeds of apples or apricots, cherry stones—the nuts contained within cherry pits—contain amygdalin, which the human body converts to cyanide, but never fear. Heating or cooking the cherry stones deactivates the amygdalin for one, human bodies are built to process a certain amount of cyanide without harm, and what’s more the amount of mahleb contained in jibneh only amounts to a trace. Furthermore, mahleb is a common spice throughout the Middle East, not only for flavoring jibneh but for pastries and even rice dishes.

As its meaning is simply “cheese,” jibneh is made all over the Middle East according to different traditions and recipes. Mahleb is often a common ingredient, but jibneh can also be flavored or styled differently depending on the country or region. In Syria a “string cheese” version of jibneh exists that is braided, and also includes black caraway seeds in the flavor profile.

 

How is Jibneh Eaten?

“I find it to be very versatile,” says Kasbo. “I like to show everyone the traditional ways of eating it as part of its story.” According to Kasbo, jibneh is not typically used for cooking in Syrian culture—besides the occasional sweet or savory pastry—and is often served simply, along with pita bread and cucumbers, or jam such as apricot or fig. Kasbo especially recommends jibneh with cold summer fruits like watermelon and cantaloupe for a refreshing bite. Because of its salty and fruity character, it works equally well with savory or sweet accompaniments.

 

Melting jibneh, especially on toasted bread, adds additional complexity. “Since it’s a low moisture cheese jibneh melts beautifully and doesn’t get oily, and when melted it creates a different flavor profile,” says Kasbo. “The aroma of the mahleb is more pronounced and the salt is more evenly distributed with each bite. Melted jibneh sprinkled with Aleppo pepper and dried mint is incredible.”

Your best bet for finding jibneh may be at a Middle Eastern specialty market or ask your local cheesemonger.

For more stories about cheeses with fascinating backstories, read How Burek Pastry Makers are Connecting People, Sharing Roots & Culture, All The Cheese in China, and 7 Azorean Cheese You Should Know.