High in the alps of Vaud, Switzerland, giant cows graze serenely in the warm sun. For most of the year the milk they produce will be turned into the famous Le Gruyère d’Alpage AOP. As autumn approaches the characteristics of their milk change, making it unsuitable for giant wheels of alpine cheese. A new opportunity arises, however. The smaller amounts of richer, fattier milk are perfect for making one of the country’s most cherished seasonal cheeses, Vacherin Mont-d’Or.
History of Vacherin Mont-d’Or
While Vacherin Mont-d’Or has been hand-made in the Vallée de Joux for more than a century, the exact origin of the recipe isn’t clear. Local legend suggests it was brought to the area by a French solider in 1871, during the Franco-Prussian war. This legend seems particularly reasonable because the nearby French Jura region produces a similar large-format cheese called Vacherin du Haut-Doubs, and smaller wheels that are simply called Mont d’Or. Ultimately, evidence later showed the Swiss production dates as far back as 1812.
Vacherin Mon-d’Or Seasonality
The seasonality of making Vacherin Mont-d’Or reflects the changes in a cow’s milk during the year. Herds spend the warmer spring and summer months at higher altitudes, feeding on alpine pastures. Because this coincides with their birthing cycle, they naturally produce much higher amounts of milk for feeding their offspring during this time.
As autumn approaches the cows stop having calves, reducing the need for milk. The animals continue to produce it, but in smaller amounts. This milk is significantly richer and fattier, making it difficult to use for Le Gruyère d’Alpage AOP production. Historically, alpine farmers would use this late-lactation milk to create much smaller wheels generically called vacherins, a name derived from the French word for cow, vache.
Although modern breeding practices have resulted in animals who lactate for more of the year with much higher yields of milk, Swiss dairy laws impose strict guidelines on how Vacherin Mont-d’Or can be made. These requirements, based on the original recipe and techniques, earn the cheese Switzerland’s esteemed appellation d’origine protégée (AOP) status, a guarantee of quality and authenticity.
One of the most important requirements is when the cheese can be made. Vacherin Mont-d’Or can only be produced from August 15th through March 31st. Cows are selected for milking a month ahead of the start date. During that month the animals can’t eat fermented grasses, called silage. They also must avoid the organic compound urea, found in foods such as cabbage and turnips, as it can adversely affect the smell and taste of the milk.
How Vacherin Mont-d’Or is Made
Forming Curds
When it’s time to make Vacherin Mont-d’Or, the milk must be collected twice a day from farms located within 15.5 miles (25km) of where the cheese will be made. The milk will be thermized, a technique of using low heat to sanitize the milk, preserving its natural qualities. This process is gentler than pasteurization, which is not allowed. The treated milk is then stored overnight to allow it to settle. Within 24 hours of collection, rennet is added, and the curds formed.
Molding
When the curds are ready, they are ladled into molds to create one of three allowed wheel sizes: Petite, Moyen, and Grand. The finished wheels range in weight from one pound for the Petite, to nearly three pounds for the Moyen, to seven pounds for the Grand. As the wheels firm they are banded with a strip of spruce wood harvested from trees in the area, which helps the wheel maintain its shape and adds the subtle, woody flavor that Vacherin Mont-d’Or is known for.
Ripening
The ripening of the finished wheels takes place on spruce planks for a minimum of 17 days. During this time the temperature is controlled and will vary depending on what stage of development the cheese is at. For the first week, the temperature cannot go below 48°F (9°C). Afterward, the temperatures can range from 42°F to 60°F (6°C to 16°C). During the entire ripening period, the relative humidity must be at least 85%. Unlike many other Swiss cheeses, the ripening caves for Vacherin Mont-d’Or can be used to age other cheeses once productions is finished for the season.
Packaging
Wheels ready for sale are required to be packaged in circular boxes also made from spruce wood, and wrapped in breathable cellophane. Swiss AOP laws require the wheels to be displayed and marketed without a lid, allowing the consumer to view the cheese through the wrap. Vacherin Mont-d’Or is the only Swiss cheese to have the packaging be considered part of the cheese itself, even factoring into the total weight for pricing. The selling window is limited to only September through April.
How to Enjoy Vacherin Mont-d’Or
Ripe wheels of Vacherin Mont-d’Or are a treat for all the senses. The rippled, textured surface turns from amber-yellow to a deeper, reddish color as it matures. The rind is easily removed, exposing the custardy, supple interior. Heady aromas of wood and bacon mix with funky cream notes and hints of garlic and hay. The flavor is slightly salty and milky, with a soft and silky mouthfeel.
Traditionally, Vacherin Mont-d’Or is served in its spruce packaging. The top rind is removed, the interior is scooped out with a spoon and served with crusty bread, cornichons, and charcuterie. A popular version of this calls for removing the plastic wrap from the container and baking it until the interior of the cheese is gooey and flowing, serving it as you would fondue.