Sicily boasts a rich culinary culture dating back to antiquity. Located in the heart of the Mediterranean, it is surrounded by the Ionian, Tyrrhenian, and Mediterranean seas, resulting in a virtual melting pot of civilizations over the centuries. This cultural diversity, combined with a warm, mild climate and fertile soils, produces a beautifully distinctive cuisine enjoyed worldwide.
The presence of cheese is nearly as old and storied as the island itself. Greek historian Diodorus Siculus credits Zeus’ grandson, Aristaeus, with the invention of cheese, having learned the art from nymphs. Homer’s Odyssey details the creation of cheese made of sheep’s milk in Sicily’s caves by the giant cyclops Polyphemus. With a dairy culture dating back millennia, Sicilians have long known the value of cheese as a way to preserve milk’s nutritional value, and have even celebrated it in literature and art.
Sicily’s landscape is dominated by hills and mountains, which cover nearly 86% of the country. High-income agriculture commands virtually all the flat land available, making the most of the little space available. Except for the province of Ragusa, which has deeply intensive animal practices that have been in place for thousands of years, all other animal husbandry takes place in the higher altitude environments of the hills and mountains.
I ricuttari (the ricotta-cheese maker)” by giopuo is licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0
These geographic restrictions limit the amount of milk and cheese Sicily produces, typically only satisfying the needs of around 20% of the nearly 6 million people on the island. As a result, the remaining dairy products needed are imported. While some of Sicily’s dairy production is industrialized, the majority of producers are still small, family-owned farms. Not only do they continue Sicily’s cheesemaking heritage, they also act as protectors of Sicily’s natural resources, a critical need for making their products.
Sicily produces three main types of cheese – pecorino, Ragusano, and ricotta. Each of these types have variations as well, often distinguished by how the wheels are treated, and how long they are aged.
Ricotta
Ricotta is by far the most popular dairy product originating in Sicily. Created out of the whey left over from cheesemaking, most people are familiar with the fresh, creamy version called ricotta fresca. Several other versions are made based on the animal milk type and the various production techniques allowed, including ricotta salata, which is dried and salted, and ricotta infornata, a baked version. Ricotta is also the star of many Sicilian-created desserts including the cannoli, which features sweetened ricotta fresca.
“Ragusa Gold!” by giopuo is licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 2.0
Ragusano
Ragusa, a province located at the southern tip of the island, boasts one of the oldest Sicilian cheeses, Ragusano. Made from raw cow milk from the Modicana breed, this stretched-curd cheese has been around since the 16th century. Today, Ragusano is still made using traditional tools and methods as required by the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) designation achieved in 1996. Wheels are formed into rectangular blocks with rounded corners. The rind is smooth and straw-yellow in color that browns with age. Pleasantly sweet and grassy in flavor when young, Ragusano will evolve savory and spicy tones as it ages.
Pecorino Siciliano
The third main cheese produced is pecorino. Pecorino Siciliano, the most well-regarded, is another PDO-recognized Sicilian cheese, and one of the oldest cheeses in Europe. This raw sheep milk cheese is mentioned in Homer’s Odyssey, Pliny the Elder’s Naturalis Historia, and myriad other works of literature. As with virtually every pecorino, Pecorino Siciliano is made with sheep milk coagulated with lamb’s rennet. The cylindrical wheels range in weight between 9-26 pounds, depending on how they will be aged. The aromas and flavors will also vary depending on their age. Younger wheels exhibit fresher, more floral characteristics, reflecting the milk’s personality. More aged versions will become piquant and assertive, with a much longer finish.