Philadelphians, be forewarned: we are about to go rogue on one of your most beloved culinary traditions, the iconic Philly Cheesesteak sandwich. Now, while I’m certain cheese pros the world over would have many excellent suggestions when it comes to what kind of cheese they’d recommend on a messy, steak-based sandwich, so long as we’re talking cheese upgrades for Philly Cheesesteaks, it seems important to seek advice from those who have a stake in the Philly cheese game.
What is a Philly Cheesesteak?
First things first, the classic Philly Cheesesteak is one of America’s iconic sandwiches: a hoagie bun loaded with griddled, chopped ribeye and onions, and typically topped with, well, Cheez Whiz, as un-artisan a cheese option there is. Provolone is often available as an alternative, but even among native Philly cheese personalities, loyalties are divided between these 2 camps. “I’m 100% team Whiz,” says Sarah Wilkins, a native Philiadelphian and former employee of Di Bruno Bros, who now works for Murray’s Cheese in NYC. “I hold a very strong belief that the messier a cheesesteak is, the better, and I despise provolone,” she says, noting its aroma of butyric acid. For what it’s worth, (and full disclosure I have no Philly roots to speak of,) I am also team Whiz, but on the other hand, it’s no surprise that many cheese pros would advocate for a cheese that would better qualify as actual cheese.
Why Swap Cheeses?
“While I love the idea of civic pride for the sake of it, which I believe the Whiz is, the food quality is always more important to me,” says Mike Geno, Philadelphia-based cheese artist. “Provolone, a legit Italian cheese, and most likely the option of those who originated this sandwich, will always be better than some artificial, preservative and chemically-produced canned product that I question even being qualified as cheese.”
Despite having strong opinions about which option makes a better traditional cheesesteak, all of the Philly cheese personalities I queried, in addition to Wilkins and Geno, were happy to offer up other cheeses that they’d be psyched to add to their cheesesteaks, at least in the privacy of their own homes. With that, here are 6 great cheeses for Philly Cheesesteaks.
Truffled Brie
Madame Fromage herself, Tenaya Darlington, our lady of Philadelphia and cheese Ferrari fame, suggests this heady option. “I always recommend a truffled Brie for something lavish,” she says, “which also pairs well with meaty flavors and onions!” Talk about an upgrade. Some truffle-studded cheeses are only made seasonally, but one option or another is bound to be available year round. Try a triple crème, truffled Delice de Bourgogne for a deeply indulgent cheesesteak experience, which should also handily provide the requisite, oozy mess.
Cheddar
Cheddar is often an easy step up from processed American cheese where things like cheeseburgers are concerned, so it’s also a no-brainer for a cheesesteak. Jeff Roberts, author of the “Atlas of American Artisan Cheese” is also a native Philadelphian (who laughed heartily when pressed for a cheesesteak alternative cheese.) “Well if I were looking to go upscale, I’d go cheddar,” he says, adding, “There are so many great cheeses in Pennsylvania,” nodding to a terroir-based approach when choosing a Philly cheesesteak cheese. More to come on that score.
Raclette
Raclette means “to scrape,” making it the only cheese named after a verb, and possibly the progenitor to something like Cheez Whiz, with its naturally occurring goo. “I would consider a nice funky washed rind melter, like Raclette or anything smelling remotely similar,” says Geno. “Just thinking about that makes me hungry.” For the civic pride element, he also calls out a local washed rind cheese option: Birchrun Hills Farm Red Cat.
Treehug (Spruce-Wrapped Cheese)
“I’m gonna be very offensive to some people,” says Yoav Perry, founder of Philadelphia’s Perrystead Dairy. “I like my own Treehug.” (Author’s note: if you’ve had the pleasure of trying Treehug, this can in no way be offensive, since you should be rewarded for putting it on absolutely anything.) Treehug is a seasonally produced, cold-weather, spruce-bark wrapped cheese whose interior paste resembles nothing if not fondue. “Once you open the top of that thing, you split it into a Philly cheesesteak just as you would with the Whiz,” says Perry.
Blue Cheese
“I have to confess; I am always thinking how good a blue cheese option is for just about any situation,” says Geno, with cheesesteaks being no exception, since the sting from blue cheese and the rich umami of beef go together exactly like a blue cheeseburger. “A nice blue cheese can range from mellow to strong and is going to be a matter of individual preference,” he says, noting that any would work in a cheesesteak context, but again suggesting Chester County’s Birchrun Blue as an excellent local option.
Cooper Sharp
“If a place doesn’t offer Whiz, I will often ask if they have Cooper Sharp, and if they don’t, they should,” says Wilkins. Cooper is a Philadelphia-based cheese brand with New York roots, (don’t tell the Philly natives,) whose products are seriously upgraded versions of Kraft singles: a little tangy and great melters perfect for cheesesteaks. What’s more, in keeping with the “messier is better” angle, Wilkins advocates for making a homemade Whiz utilizing Cooper Sharp. “Throw some white American cheddar cheese, evaporated milk, a little Texas Pete, garlic, and onion powder into a pot, and I am done,” she says. “The thing about the cheesesteak is that it is not fancy. We aren’t fancy in Philly; we don’t need to be, and it doesn’t matter whether it’s served with Whiz, Provolone, Cooper Sharp, (or any other of these cheeses.) It’s always going to be delicious.”