Who doesn’t love a good sandwich? We all have our favorites, and I’ve come to learn over the years that a sandwich for many is a very personal matter. Despite the trend on social media towards oversized multi-ingredient “extreme sandwiching”, my personal preference leans towards the French aesthetic of simple and focused flavors. And although sandwiches incorporating Comte and Brie abound in American specialty markets and cheese shops, most other French cheeses are seen only as cheese board selections. However I have discovered over the years that many of France’s finest are also great sandwich ingredients. Here is a quintet of my most well-received creations. The recipes for each sandwich appear at the end of this piece.
Please note that some cheeses and products are typically not available in conventional grocery stores. Check with your local cheese shops, specialty grocers , or online retailers.
French Cheeses for Sandwiches
Southwest Flavors
This quick and easy baguette sandwich features Ossau-Iraty, the star of the Pyrenees sheep milk cheese family. Firm with a creamy mouthfeel, its full flavor pairs perfectly with the saline notes of the Jambon Bayonne from the same region. Although not as omnipresent as Italian Prosciutto di Parma, this dry cured Basque ham is worth seeking out for its distinctive flavor and firmer texture that more closely resembles the great Spanish jamons . The Agour company produces stellar versions of both the cheese and the ham, and their products are widely distributed here in the U.S. A touch of sweetness from the fig jam rounds out the flavors.
Ham and Cheese Makeover
Cantal is one of France’s best selling cheeses, yet remains under-represented on our shores. Think classic “ham and cheddar” here , but with a French twist. Look for a young version (“Cantal Jeune”), as the buttery flavors and lactic tang are perfectly suited to this application. A good quality domestic replica of the Jambon de Paris will work best here, as the French versions are not importable. If unavailable, any good ham of your choosing will suffice. Add some good quality butter and voila!
Beyond Brie
Fromagerie Guilloteau is famous for their Fromager d’Affinois, whose seductive texture is achieved by their patented micro-filtration technique. This uber-creamy cheese will surely become your choice over “brie ordinaire “once you try it . Bonus: the rind is much more stable and tasty than that of supermarket brie. Great on a sandwich with just about anything or even by itself, I’ve gotten the best feedback from the version below featuring smoked turkey, and it is equally outstanding on either a baguette or a croissant.
“Savorie” Faire
Raclette cheese is an excellent sandwich cheese, and is a great upgrade from everyday “Swiss” on both hot and cold sandwiches. There are a few mass produced French versions available in the U.S. that are perfectly fine, but for a special treat seek out the Raclette Lait Cru Cooperative from Paccard Affineurs in the Savoie region. Their raw milk version possesses superior texture and full round flavor, with a yielding texture and a pleasant little “tingle” on the tongue.
My Gallic take on the classic Cubano features ham and a country style pate standing in for the roast pork in the traditional version. One or two very thin slices of a garlicky pate campagne will do, and don’t worry if they crumble; simply distribute them over the sandwich. The cheese can either be sliced or shredded using the large holes of a box grater.
Fit for a King
Not exactly “quick and easy” or everyday fare, this is something more suited to a special occasion luncheon or even a light dinner. Much has been written about Roquefort cheese and with good reason. The king of blue cheeses and a symbol of quality and elegance since the 15th century, it is more often seen in the company of fine ports and dessert wines rather than sandwiched between two slices of bread. Given that my recipe incorporates both truffle butter and beef tenderloin I feel justified in making the exception. Roquefort Carles is an excellent choice, but other brands will do nicely. And while the ingredient list for this one requires a bit of pre planning and some cooking, I can guarantee that it will be love at first bite!
In the first four recipes that follow, plan on roughly two ounces each of meat and cheese per sandwich, cutting 1/8th inch thick slices along the length of the cheese. The exception would be a high sided short triangular wedge of cheese (such as the Ossau-Iraty ) which is best portioned by placing the whole wedge cheese side down , cutting slices parallel to the top and bottom rind. Remove the rind from all the cheese with the exception of the brie style cheese ,which is best cut at least ¼ inch thick so as to accentuate its texture.
Sandwiches with French Cheese
Jambon Bayonne with Ossau-Iraty
Bread: Baguette , 8 inches long, split lengthwise, the top slice spread with fig jam.
Assembly from the bottom up: Jambon Bayonne, Ossau-Iraty, fig jam.
Ham and Cantal
Bread: Baguette, 8 inches long, split lengthwise, both halves spread with good quality butter or herb butter.
Assembly from the bottom up: butter, Jambon de Paris or ham, Cantal, 2 bread and butter pickles cut in half moons and arranged the length of the sandwich, butter. Optional : green leaf or butter lettuce on top of the pickle layer.
Smoked Turkey with Fromager d’ Affinois
Bread; Baguette, 8 inches long, or croissant , either bread split lengthwise. Spread whole grain mustard on the bottom slice, and fig jam on the top slice .
Ingredients arranged from the bottom up: whole grain mustard, smoked turkey, Fromager d’Affinois, arugula, fig jam
The “Frubano”
Bread; Traditional Cuban bread, 8 inches long ,split lengthwise; or 2 slices of good quality sourdough or country loaf; either bread spread with Dijon mustard on both sides.
Ingredients arranged from the bottom up: Dijon mustard, good quality ham (preferably an off the bone country style), pate campagne, Raclette, 1 or 2 cornichons sliced thin, Dijon mustard.
To cook: Classic grilled cheese style in a pan with butter, or on a panini press.
Recipe
Beef Tenderloin with Roquefort
Makes 2 sandwiches
INGREDIENTS
8 ounce beef tenderloin
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Canola oil, as needed
4 slices of good quality Pullman loaf, Pain de Mie , or brioche sandwich loaf bread
3 tbsp truffle butter, divided in half
½ cup watercress, tough stems removed, and dressed extremely lightly with a touch of red wine
vinegar and canola or other neutral oil
½ of a radish, cut in half , the half cut into very thin slices
3 ounces Roquefort Carles if available, or other Roquefort , broken into larger pieces
PROCEDURE
Remove the butter from the refrigerator to soften one half hour before serving.
Season the beef with salt and pepper, and saute or grill until medium rare. Set aside to rest and
cool, about 10-15 minutes. It should be barely warm when assembling the sandwich.
Toast the bread until very lightly golden, being careful not to over toast it. It should be only
lightly crisped, not hard cooked.
ASSEMBLY
Spread the butter on the top and bottom slices of bread. Slice the beef and arrange on the bottom slice of bread, top with the watercress, a scattering of radish slices, the Roquefort, and close the sandwich with the second buttered slice of bread. Slice in half on the diagonal and serve. Is a side of truffle potato chips too much? You be the judge…I say go right ahead and “gild that lily “ if you like. Bon Appetit!